April meetings for Garment Sewing Group have begun-Thursday’s meeting was at Creative Sewing. Saturday we meet at Lakes Makerie and Wednesday at Sewing Lounge. Hope you can come!!
Sewing Lounge’s sale runs through Saturday, April 13!
Hoping to chase away the clouds with some sunny sewing-meetings are at 10:30 am.
Thurs., April 11, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley (and Fabric Swap!)
Saturday, April 13, Lakes Makerie, Mpls.
Wednesday, April 17, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul
Debbie’s Garments:
1. To get the Monroe Turtleneck look I combined the neckline of the turtleneck with the body and sleeves of the Dolman. It was an easy hack, quick and fun to sew. A win-win.
1. Fitting adjustments include shortening front, back and sleeves between shoulder and bust and shortening sleeve lengths. I did a narrow shoulder adjustment, narrowed sleeves at hem and cut collar size down by 3/8 inch all around.
2. I did interface the collar, shoulder seams and center fronts and hems. Because I did not line the jacket I did not interface the dart tips.
3. I omitted the pockets also because I did not line the jacket.
4. It is a fun pattern with very good illustrated instructions. If I make it again I would use wool or a boucle.
1. I love a boat neck tee. The neck on this tee is unique so I had to give it a try.
2. After trying to decipher the printed pattern included in the magazine I decided to trace the neckline pattern pieces only and used them as a template on my favorite tee shirt pattern (Butterick 6848.)
3. The instructions are vague and it seemed just wrong to construct the neckband using the pattern pieces the pattern supplies. Instead I cut a 2 and 1/2 inch strip for the front neckband and did the same for back neckline cutting that strip about 2 inches shorter than front neckband. I quartered the neckline, overlapped the front band over the back band at the shoulder seams and quartered the neckband. Matching the quarters I basted the band to the neckline. Once the band was basted and I was satisfied with the result I went on to complete the tee shirt easily.
4. The magazine is similar to the Burda magazine. Great for Inspiration but not so much for construction.
1. This is a TNT (Tried and True) pattern for me. It is easy to construct, directions are excellent and works well with many types of knits.
April Garment Sewing Group
Thursday, April 11, 10:30, Creative Sewing Apple Valley
Saturday, April 13, 10:30, Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis
*Wednesday, April 17, 10:30, The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul
*Please note – this is the 3rd Wednesday of the month-not the second Wednesday that we usually schedule
Kristin’s Garments:
1. Thought it might be a nice boxy fit tee but not so much-wider neckline, wider shoulder but not quite drop.
2. Folded the balloon sleeve down to normal sleeve.
3. Neck edge was supposed to be turned under and stitched-no band. I added band and it stood up a bit-not small enough but also doesn’t choke 🙂
4. Fine pattern, just doesn’t earn a spot in my permanent collection.
1. “Somebody” said it was their favorite turtleneck-looser fitting-so I had to try.
2. Shortened and widened turtleneck and widened sleeve and armhole. Also tried the size 2 vs. size 3 body.
3. Sleeves are quite narrow, even in the Art Gallery knit.
4. After 3 tries I’m going back to “my” favorite turtleneck 🙂
1. Originally my muslin, but over time (and experience), I realized that the wide wale corduroy I had intended for the final garment wouldn’t be appropriate so carried on and made wool version my final.
2. Shortened the jacket and sleeves by 1 inch. Otherwise made to pattern with a few detours along the way.
3. The front and back yoke are one piece so the front yoke is on the bias. If I were to make again, I would try with the back on bias instead as the front stretched a bit and wouldn’t I rather have that in the back?
4. The other endearing feature of the pattern is the vents on sleeve and bottom hem. The technique, however, is what would be difficult on a thick fabric. It looks good in the drawing but doesn’t really show up when worn-for all the work that it took. Maybe deepen the hems/vents to 3”?
5. Otherwise the drafting was great, everything went together well. I shortened the body of the longer version by 2” and sleeve by 1”.
1. Looking for a straight leg pattern but so many are soooo wide. Maybe what I want should be called relaxed leg? These are 20” at the hem-size 18.
2. Simple back dart and fold over elastic waist. I went up one size as I was in middle but may try down size also.
3. They are called a 7/8 length. I cut to pattern but lengthened at hem 1”.
Saturday at the Sewing Lounge was packed with wonderful sewing-the fun continues Wednesday, March 13 at Lakes Makerie and Thursday, March 14 at Creative Sewing in Apple Valley. Don’t miss it!!
Here are the makes from Saturday’s Garment Sewing Group meeting-new people too!
Another great month of inspirational sewing! Here are the photos and notes from Debbie and Kristin-
Garment Sewing Group
February 2024
Debbie’s Garments:
1. Fitting adjustments include shortening length 1 and 1/2 inches, narrow the leg width from my size at knee to smallest size at hem and straightening out hip curve. I also removed 1/4” from center back seam at waist for about 4 inches due to gapping.
2. I eliminated the strap and belt loops.
3. The pattern has several positives. The instructions are good and there is a video link for zipper insertion. I also like that the zipper shield is included. The waistband and facing are shaped nicely and enhances the overall look of the pants.
4. In my opinion there a few cons – the pocket flap should be interfaced. One side seam should be stitched then side pocket attached and then stitch remaining side seam. Most importantly, the pocket placement lines are difficult to decipher.
5. Overall I feel this is a good pattern. I like the crotch depth and contour waist. I would use this pattern again without the cargo pocket.
1. I shortened the length of the tee by 1 and 1/2 inches.
2. I narrowed the sleeves from the elbow to one inch less at hem.
3. I made the band into a split band.
4. The cons for this pattern is that the neck piece is a lot. The instructions include stay stitching and gathering sleeves before setting in. I don’t feel those steps are necessary on most knits. If I make it again I would remove some width from the neckband and maybe use pleats rather than gathers for the neckband.
1. I made this top last fall and thought I would try it again as a stash buster.
2. I was short on fabric so I used the jersey knit for neckband and pocket trim. I also needed to adjust the sleeves by adding a long cuff.
3. The tee does brighten up winter and uses up fabric scraps but I do not need to make this pattern again!
Upcoming Classes:
Sewing With Knits-One Day Intensive-Wednesday, February 28, 10-4 pm at Quilter’s Haven
Basic & Beyond Sergery-One Day Intensive-Thursday, February 29, 10 am-4 pm
Kristin’s Garments:
1. Followed directions exactly when making toile. But then I thought I was smarter than the pattern maker for my final garment!! A good argument for making the entire pattern-zips, pockets and all?!
2. Fit changes-I needed to up size for hips: instead of messing with the pocket area upper and lower piece I cut up into pattern and swung open as needed to avoid pocket area.
3. Drafting is great-all pieces fit together very well. Pocket zippers were in my stash. Ordered main zipper from Wawak and they came quickly but selection is limited for the dual seperating zippers but as long as the jacket is, I had to be able to zip up from bottom.
4. My narrow and regular walking feet were indispensable and hardworking (a Janome feature). Most seams were serged and then topstitched. Didn’t use coverstitch at all.
5. The zip is the last thing to go in and I didn’t put the zip in the toile before I started the final garment. That’s where I thought I was smarter and now I think maybe the pattern maker ran out of steam as the instructions for the zip are pretty basic and I had to do more filling in of the blanks at that point.
6. I was glad I did the zip after hood installation-less jacket to maneuver as I topstitched. A 30” zipper was perfect for the size that I made.
7. Wrinkles were an issue as they didn’t iron out. A run through the washer/dryer…??
8. I like all the details and the fabric choices. Am hoping this is an active wear jacket that will keep necessary parts warm.
9. The toile was fun also and I look forward to putting on a regular collar and adding finishing touches.
1. Pants: Added 1” length-should have added more. Pants turned out much baggier than the photo but I am reserving judgment till they come out of the dryer. Perhaps an ankle band?
1. Waistband is wide for just 1” elastic and kind of high. Will cut down.
2. Sweatershirt: As Debbie said, the sleeves are wide at wrist, neck is overdone but I like the feel of it (the fabric!!) and will remove the band (it’s all too long and looks better without) and put a tuck in the sleeve with a band as that makes it more snuggly 🙂
1. I did remove 2” from the neck band and used pleats instead of gathers but it’s a lot to put in and shouldn’t be attempted late at night!
2. I’m glad I put the pocket on-it was surprisingly flat and not pouchy-at least before laundering-
March Garment Sewing Group
Saturday, March 9, 10:30 at the Sewing Lounge, St.Paul
Wednesday, March 13, 10:30 at Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis
Thursday, March 14, 10:30 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley
We’ve had a great start to our February meetings! Last chance is tomorrow at Lakes Makerie-10:30 am. Hope to see you—
Garment Sewing Group
January 2024
Debbie’s Garments:
This is an unlined jacket pattern but since I was using a wool I wanted to line it. I drafted a pattern for the front and back lining. I did some “light” tailoring by interfacing all hems and using a wigum (sleeve head) in the sleeve cap. I also bagged the lining.
1. The collar piece in the pattern is rounded. However the pattern picture, line drawing and instruction sheet show the collar squared off. I adjusted the collar piece to look like pattern.
2. The pattern is labeled super easy. Hopefully even though the pattern does not mention stay stitching or understitching most sewers would use these techniques.
3. I appreciate the bust darts – gives the jacket less boxy look.
4. The pattern calls for hand sewn snaps that do not show for the closure. I don’t think I will use any closures.
1. I heard good things about this pattern so I thought I would give it a try and compare it to another TNT shirt pattern in my stash.
2. Fit changes that I made include shortening between shoulder and bust, removing 3 inches in length and a narrow shoulder adjustment.
3. I did change order of construction because I like to work with the piece flat as long as possible.
4. The directions for the shirt are very good. They include the burrito method for the yoke and the collar and neckband directions are excellent.
5. The band is a sew on and the directions have you sew rs of band to ws of shirt which gives a clean finish. I used my standard machine for construction and French seams as well as my serger.
6. I feel it is a very good pattern and I will use it again but will soften the hemline curve and change the gathered yoke to a pleat.
1. This is the TNT shirt pattern I referred to above.
2. Some of the differences between the McCalls and Kwiksew pattern are that the seam allowance for KS is 1/4 inch, sleeve construction is flat and the band is cut on the front, no facing.
3. I used French seams as much as possible because of the color of the shirt. I am not sure I like the feel of the French seam on both shirts in the armhole.
4. Also the McCalls shirt has bust darts. You can easily add vertical darts on front and back of Kwik sew pattern to get a more fitted look.
5. I like both patterns and they will both be a TNT in my pattern stash.
February Garment Sewing Group
*Moved up one week – Wednesday, February 7, 10:30 at the Sewing Lounge, St.Paul
Thursday, February 8th, 10:30 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley
Saturday, February 10, 10:30 at Lakes Makerie, Mpls.
Kristin’s Garments:
1. Several people have shown this pattern (free! only pay for printing) but I guess I wasn’t listening very well. It is made for boiled wool and has unfinished hems and outside facing seams. But the pattern was already cut out (I did wonder about the vent cut outs…
2. The velvet looked more refined so I didn’t expose any seams plus the fabric would have shed for a while and it also rolls.
3. The sleeves are extra long so you can fold them up so I shortened them.
4. The collar was single layer but I sewed two together and love the result.
5. The vents were angled up into the seam allowance-happy with that too.
6. I had three buttons but the thickness of the collar allowed only two so I put the last one on the pocket 🙂
1. Several people have also made this raglan turtleneck (neck has two pieces) and it was waiting in my pattern stash. Love raglans, especially when sewing for family and size range can’t be beat.
2. Also love the cuff (didn’t do the thumb hole). Finishes up a turtle so nicely.
3. The turtleneck is doubled and at first I thought too much but it grew on me. Great fit all over as usual for Jalie. Another favorite turtleneck pattern!!
Ruby Joggers/Paprika Patterns
1. I had an earlier pair in my closet that was seeing a lot of wear so I thought I’d try them again. I had thrown away the pattern (should have been a hint!) so had to reorder.
2. Chose my size but yoke in back was way too big.
3. Made some necessary changes and then some more! and they are OK but again the pattern will not stay in rotation (and I’ll make a note somewhere (?) to not try again.
4. I did learn one thing tho-the pocket bag that is totally sewn into the side seam gives a smoother finish for me than the pocket that is only partially sewn into seam and then hangs.
1. Beautiful vintage blouse with lots of tuck/darts at the waist but, alas, not for me! After much tailor tacking and knot tying, the blouse would not fit around me so out they all came!!
2. Lowered bust dart 1 inch and could have lowered a bit more.
3. Underarms were high along with tight circumference so 5/8” side seam became 1/4”.
4. Sleeves were 3/4 length so added about 3” and changed the cuff.
5. Stripes were fun-I’m tempted to buy more fabric and try some shadowing.
6. It was a fun sew-maybe again in summer and a larger size!!
Fashion TV to watch- Jan. 19, Disney “Cristobal Balenciaga” and Feb. 14, Apple TV “The New Look” about Christian Dior and contemporaries.
Material Girl Sewing 