September 2016

Debbie’s Garments:

Women’s City Coat: Jalie #2680
Fabric and Notions: Double Faced stretch denim, amount per pattern and 1 yard Scuba Knit for facing, under collar, packets and bottom of sleeve lining. (optional)
Six snaps or buttons, topstitching thread, size 90 machine needle.
Pattern and Constructions Notes:
1.This is a great pattern. The written directions and illustrations are clear and easy to follow. One caution-the sleeves are very long.
2. I did not use interfacing.
3. I lined the upper portion of the sleeve with rayon and added the contrast print to the bottom of the sleeve lining so that it is exposed when sleeve hem is rolled up.
4. The coat is made to pattern except I chose to do a wrapped collar. Fun pattern.
Safari Jacket: McCalls7365, View C for front, view C for back.
Fabric and Notions: Pinwale Corduroy amount per pattern, 3/4 yard cotton for contrast, 1/4 yard faux leather for trim, 5 yards cording for pipping and 9 snaps or buttons.
Pattern and Construction Notes:
1. To make the piping cut 1 and 1/4” strips of faux leather. Wrap around the cording and stitch using an invisible zipper foot with removable tape on the bottom. It worked well.
2. The pockets were lined by first cutting a bias slit in lining fabric and then stitching around all four sides of pocket. Trim, turn rs out and place a piece of fusible tape inside and press over the bias slit to close opening.
3. The trim was difficult at times so I tried a few different methods. The pocket flaps were completely constructed and then I topstitched the trim onto the flaps. It looks okay on back and hopefully it will not be seen.
4. The collar was a little more difficult – I pressed the top and sides of the main fabric collar piece to ws, trimmed and then topstitched to piping. Then I repeated the same process for the under collar. The piping was sandwiched between the upper and lower collar. Whew!
5. The front bands were stitched with the rs to the ws of the shirt. The trim was glued to folded edge of band and then topstitched to shirt.
6. I lined the upper sleeves with rayon and added contrast to the lower sleeve lining to expose the contrast when sleeves are rolled to form a cuff.

October 2016 Fashion Sewing Club Dates:
Tuesday, October 11, 10:30 @ Treadle
Thursday, October 13, 5:30 @ JoAnn-Edina
*Note Change-Saturday, October 15, 10:30 @Treadle

Fashion Sewing Club
September 2016
Wedding Dress #1

Burda 6628
Linen and eyelet
1. Shoulders/sleeves are great but the a-line with the overlay didn’t do me any favors.
2. Nice construction with the overlay and facings.
3. Fun dart at cap of sleeve.
4. Eyelet busy enough that seam allowances didn’t show.
Dress #2
New Look 6411
Ponte and cotton crochet lace
1. Used nude mesh as underlining for lace pieces. This works very well as far as concealing hems and seam allowances.
2. Tip-use a narrow zig zag on lace as opposed to a straight stitch and it disappears into the lace.
3. Neck finish is single layer over seam allowance and stitch in ditch.
Dress #3
McCall’s 7349
Ponte knits
1. Made a 1” petite adjustment in length and added 2”.
2. Used the “wrong” side of triple coverstitch to make accent topstitching. Try to keep one needle on the other fabric to show the least of your crooked stitching ☺.
Dress #4
Simplicity 8086/Burda 6836
Silk and ponte
1. Keeping the border print in mind, I wanted a straight cut skirt so tried attaching to top of Simp 8086.
2. Worked well-vertical bust darts quite high and needed higher waist.
3. Skirt poufed out in back.

Lace Overlay
Simplicity 8086/8047
Lace and chiffon
1. Basted lace pieces to nude mesh and serged together. Worth the effort.
2. Used sleeve from 8047.
3. Cut mesh up to seam allowances.
4. Finished edges with bias cut chiffon strips.
5. Unfortunately, seam allowances with nude mesh shows.
Dress #5
Vogue 1349 OOP
Ponte knit and mesh knit
1. Love the lines and fit options with this dress.
2. Lining is a simple shift with darts.
3. Finishing with lining super simple.
4. Zip not needed with knit.
5. Added 5” to length.