September 2011

Fashion Sewing Club
September 2011

Debbie Petersen

Contrast Yoke and Sleeves Sheath

Pattern: Your favorite sheath dress pattern or McCall’s 2401 or Butterick 5602.
Fabric: The pattern called for wovens but Ponte knit works well. You will need one and one half yards of main fabric and ½ yd to 1 yard of contrast.

Pattern Changes:
1. Eliminate zipper if using a knit. (Make sure you can dress on and off wo zipper!)
2. Add length to sleeve.
3. Determine the width you would like for the front and back yoke. My front yoke is 4 and ½ inches including sa. at center front. My back yoke is 7 and ½ inches at center back, including sa. On pattern front, mark start of yoke 4 and ½ inches from neck edge. Draw a line to form yoke from center front to side seam, curving gently to side seam about 2 inches below armhole. Repeat for back pattern piece, using the measurement you have decided on for the width of your back yoke.
4. Make a pattern for back and front yoke pieces using the lines drawn on the pattern pieces. Cut out yokes and sleeves in your contrast fabric.
5. Add sa to the upper line of yoke marks on front and back dress pattern pieces. Fold top of pattern pieces or cut off and cut out the bottom of dress front and back from main fabric.
6. Cut out facings and interfacings from yoke front and back.

Construction:
1. Stitch darts in dress front and back.
2. Stabilize front shoulder seams.
3. Pin front and back yokes at shoulders. Stitch. Press sa open.
4. Pin front yoke to dress front, rst. Stitch. Press sa towards dress bottom. Repeat for back yokes.
5. Pin front and back facings to yokes at shoulder seams. Stitch. Press seams open.
6. Stitch facings to yoke, rst. Trim, clip and under stitch sa. Press facings to ws of dress. Stitch in the ditch to secure at shoulders.
7. Continue dress to pattern.

The Sewing Workshop L Bag

Notes: Faux leather is not mentioned as a fabric choice for this pattern but it does work nicely. I found using a size 14 leather needle, walking foot, zip clips and Steam a Seam very helpful in constructing this fun bag. I also found serging the sides and bottom of the pocket edges and then pressing under the serged sa much easier than the method suggested in the pattern.

Asymmetrical Zip Vest

Pattern: New Look 6914 or your favorite vest pattern.
Fabric and Notions: Ponte knit, 6- 8 inch separating zipper, interfacing.

Pattern Changes:
1. Extend the right front of vest about 2 inches from top of front center and along cf edge. Add one inch to length to all pattern pieces.
2. Extend the left front vest pattern piece as above. Also place a mark at the start of the bottom vest curve. Draw a diagonal line from that point up 7 – 8 inches, depending on the length of your zipper. Cut pattern apart on that line. When laying pattern piece on fabric spread pattern piece ½ inch at bottom to nothing at top of line. This is where you will place one side of the zipper.
3. Instead of lining the vest, cut two right fronts and two left fronts, using one of each for facing.

Construction:
1. Trim right and left facing pieces so they about 1 and ½ inches at shoulders and about a sa width short of the widest part at the bottom of the vest.
2. Fuse interfacing to facing pieces. Clean finish out side edges of facings.
3. Clean finish slashed area of left front vest.
4. Baste one side of zipper to center front edge of right front.
5. Baste the second side of zipper between the slashed area of left front (the zipper is the filling of the fabric sandwich – it is almost like a dart.
6. Close zipper and check placement. Make adjustments if needed. Stitch zippers using a regular stitch.
7. Clean finish back neck edge. Press 5/8 inch to ws of vest.
8. pin facings to vest fronts, rst. Stitch, trim, clip and under stitch sa.
9. Pin vest fronts to vest back at shoulders. Wrap neck edge of facings and back neck edge around shoulder seams. Stitch shoulder seams. Press.
10. Stitch front sides to front, back sides to back.
11. Clean finish armhole edges and press to ws. Topstitch.
12. Stitch side seams of vest.
13. Clean finish bottom edges of vest and top stitch a one inch hem.

Lavender Blouse – Kwik Sew 3199 – cuff width has been shortened.

Skirt – The Sewing Workshop, 8th Avenue Skirt – made to pattern.

Fashion Sewing Club
September 2011
Kristin

Leather Bag
Pattern: V8741
Fabric: Faux leather on woven
Pattern Changes:
1. Faux leather is alternated to achieve subtle color blocking.
2. Large inside pockets omitted and smaller ones added.
3. Handles attached along bag opening instead of across.
Construction:
1. Follow directions but omit the inside pouch feature. It seemed complicated and perhaps unnecessary but on a second reading my be useful-personal preference.
2. Add two simple pockets sewn to lining.
3. When pleating bottom, arrange pleats to center on each side-looks more uniform on the outside.
4. Trim-Serge 2” bias strip finished on one long side onto upper edge, short ends first and then longer edges. Turn to inside and stitch in ditch on right side and then again to catch lower serged edge of trim.
5. Attaching handles can get thick-used my old Singer and omitted last cover tab piece. Omitted ties and may or may not add buttons or clasp.
Faux Leather Sewing Tips:
1. Use a teflon or roller foot-in a pinch use matte scotch tape on bottom of foot.
2. Pressing is unnecessary and unproductive and it warms up the pleather making it more prone to getting stuck under the presser foot.
3. Topstitching is beautiful and easy to do-makes it look professional.
4. Walking foot may also be useful. Watch for uneven feeding. Place bigger pieces nearest feed dogs (on bottom).
5. Faux leather is backed by a woven or a knit. The knit will be stretchier-keep this in mind when sewing handles, etc.
6. Needles-Try Sharp 70 or Jeans needles. If using heavy topstitch thread, use the Jeans needle to keep thread from breaking.
7. Pins-test on a sample or try the many clips available-Getta Grip Sewing Clips, Martelli Zip Grip. My favorite is metal office clips, the smaller size.

Leather Detail Jacket
Pattern: V2232 (out of print but available on line)
Fabric: Blue Wool Double Weave/Gray Faux Leather on knit
Pattern Changes:
1. Topstitch back “v” inset as appliqué rather than seamed-continue back fold all the way up to neckline on Center Back.
2. Added a front “v”-cut a second “v” piece from faux leather and add 5/8” seam allowance on fold edge and cut fold.
3. Hem facings applied as hong kong finish and shows to outside.
Construction:
1. Place faux leather “v” on top of center back and topstitch. Trim close to edges.
2. Apply front “v” in same manner.
3. Stitch seams as directed.
4. Hems-cut 1 1/2” strips of faux leather on crosswise grain to give a bit more stretch. Serge right sides together, turn to wrong side, stitch in ditch and trim in the following order, trimming and wrapping corners as needed:
a. Back, sides, neck, center fronts
5. Add closures as desired.

Funky Tee Revisited
Pattern: McCall’s
Pattern Changes:
1. Added short tank attached at shoulders to keep top in place.
Construction changes:
1. Cut out your favorite tank in a complementary or matching tee fabric but just to below bust.
2. Sew as usual but add elastic to bottom hem, snug enough to keep top in place.
3. Try on tee over tank and mark where seam allowances should be (it may not be identical for both tank and tee.
4. Stitch two together in ditch of tee shoulder seam.


Boat Neck Tee
Pattern: V8710 and V1109
Fabric: Wavy Knit (make sure you use a two way stretch knit if using crossgrain)
Pattern Changes:
1. Cut a boat neck and added a strip at shoulders to improve wearability.
Construction:
1. When cutting front and back, use the front and back piece from V1109 to get an approximate curve and add 2” to top line. Mark shoulder point on front and back.
2. Sew in front inset as directed.
3. Cut two rectangles, 8”x9” using stripes as desired. Fold in half so fold has least stretch.
4. Lay front and back paper pattern pieces together at shoulders to get armhole shape. Fold front and back fabric pieces in half and lay over paper pattern. Pin folded rectangles to shoulder to create the inset. Pin and baste.
5. Topstitch 1” from edge along front and back top edges to form neck edge. Trim edges as desired.
6. Finish top as directed.


Edgy Dress-Sandra Betzina
Pattern: V1234
Pattern Changes: made to pattern
Comments: Fun pattern to put together-follow directions and you’ll be fine.
Sizing was great for a triangle body type-top is close fitting, bottom has room.
Fun and funky to wear. Do not hang.

Calendar- Material Girls
www.materialgirlsewing.com
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Dress Your Best PLUS!!-latest fashion trends, how to dress/sew for your body type, current makeup ideas PLUS stash management and wardrobe/sewing planning-Saturday, October 15 at Treadle, 1-4.

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Sewing With a Pattern-how to read a pattern and construct simple garment
Totally Serger Tees
Flatlock Skirt-serger project class
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Schoolhouse Tunic
Faux Leather Bags
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Monday, Oct. 10, Make It Sew, 1:30 and 6:30
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FASHION SEWING CLUB
September 2011
Laurel Ely

Garment Type: Dress with neckline ruffle
Pattern Company & Number: Butterick 5600
Fabric: Chambray
Notions:
• Thread
• Interfacing
• 7 Buttons (for my length)

Pattern Changes and Cutting Directions: To pattern. This is an exact copy of a dress that I saw in RTW.

Construction Directions: To pattern, except for the back pleat. I didn’t like the size of the back pleat, so I made that a bit smaller. Also, I enclosed the yoke facings as is usually found in blouse patterns.

Note: This is a very easy dress. The fit is a bit smaller than I expected.

Garment Type: Shirt
Pattern Company & Number: Sewing Workshop – Hibiscus Shirt
Fabric:
• Radiance – silk and cotton blend. Note: You will need more fabric if you decide to use the Texture Magic as I did. The package will suggest amounts.
Buy the larger package ot the Texture Magic.
• Lining for the bottom panels.
Notions:
• Thread
• Buttons
• Texture Magic
Pattern Changes and Cutting Directions:
• Apply the Texture Magic to some of the fabric and follow the directions.
• Cut off the facing pieces on the right and left front panel pieces, adding seam allowances to both pieces.
• Cut lower panels out of the textured fabric.
• Cut the lower panel facing pieces of the lining fabric to reduce bulk.
• Cut out lower panels in the lining fabric.
Construction Directions:
• Sew the lower panel facing pieces to the right and left front panels.
• Sew the lower panel lining pieces together.
• Attach the lining pieces to the panel pieces at hemline at ¾”. Trim and press to wrong side.
• Attach lining to top of the panel on inside, covering up the Texture Magic.
• Follow the directions in the pattern.

Note: This is not a pattern for novices. It is complicated and time consuming.

Garment Type: Blouse
Pattern Company & Number: Burda 7967, View A
Fabric: Blouse weight linen
Notions:
• Thread
• Buttons
• Interfacing, optional
Pattern Changes and Cutting Directions:
• Cut off facing and add seam allowances to both pieces.
• Draw a new front pattern piece, using the CF line, hemline, and the neckline as reference points.
• 2” from CF draw a line from the neck to the bottom on the straight of the grain.
• Draw another line 1 ½” from the first line.
• Draw a third line 1 ½” from the second line.
• Crease the pattern on each of those lines and fold in ½” pleat. Press the pattern in order to hold the pleats in place.
• Trim the pattern and open it up. It will look very strange.
• Now lay the open pattern on the fabric and cut it out.
• Transfer all marks.
Construction Directions:
• Fold fabric on the marked pleat lines and press.
• Sew the pleats at ½” away from the crease from top to bottom.
• Sew the front facings on.
• Follow the pattern for the remainder of the blouse.

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