October 2011

Fashion Sewing Club
October 2011
Debbie Petersen

Knit Shirt with Hidden Placket
Pattern: Simplicity 2447
Fabric: The pattern called for wovens but I used Sophia knit. Follow pattern requirements for amounts, I choose not to interface.
Pattern Changes:
1. Add 1 and ¼” to width of right front band pattern piece. No change to left band.
2. Use view E for shirt body without ruffles and sleeves from view A.
Construction:
1. Pin one long edge of right band to rs of front right shirt.
2. Roll shirt towards band. Wrap the other long edge of band over the shirt and pin to edge of band. (This creates a hot dog in a bun effect that we use for pillowcases or collar in the Now Jacket from the Sewing Workshop pattern.) Stitch this seam. Trim sa.
3. Pull shirt to rs through the stitched band. Press.
4. Open band. To form hidden placket, meet band cf to band sa. Measure and press ¾” from sa. Stitch in the ditch on ws. at the ¾” mark.
5. Mark placement of buttonholes and stitch.
6. Follow pattern directions to complete shirt, except for the hemming of the right front of shirt – the placket is part of the narrow hem for this side of the shirt.

Asymmetrical Square Neckline Tee Shirt
Pattern: Kwik Sew 2740 view C or your favorite Tee pattern.
Fabric: Stable knit, amount to pattern.
Pattern Changes:
1. Trace one whole front.
2. At the neck edge of the left shoulder, measure in ½” and mark. From that mark measure straight down 5 and ¼” and mark. Draw a line to connect marks.
3. At right neck edge at start of curve, draw a line to straightenen the curved neck ending at the bottom mark of the left front. This creates the asymmetrical neckline. Hold pattern up to you to determine the depth of new neckline – you may want to raise or lower neckline – adjust pattern accordingly and cut new neckline shape.
Construction:
1. Reinforce corner at bottom of left neckline by stitching 1” on both sides of corner and press a piece of fusible interfacing to ws at corner.
2. Clean finish front and back necklines. Press under 3/8” on front shirt at neck edge. Topstitch.
3. Pin front to back rst at shoulder seams. At least ¼” of back shoulder at neck edge should extend beyond front shoulder edge. Stitch shoulder seams. Wrap extensions over previous stitched shoulder seams. Stitch. Turn neck edge to rs. Topstitch back neck edge.
4. Continue shirt to pattern instructions.

Fleece Zipped Jacket
Pattern: McCall’s 6441, view A
Fabric and Notions: Fleece amount to pattern. Eliminate interfacing and lining.
18” separating zipper, Wonder tape and Steam- a – Seam.

No pattern changes

Construction:
1. Pin side front to front at side front edge, wst, stitch.
2. Pin side back to back at side back.edge, wst, stitch.
3. Pin cb seam, wst, stitch.
4. Pin back to front at shoulder seams, rst, stitch. Press sa to back. Topstitch.
5. Cut off sa on cf edge of facing and cf edge of jacket.
6. Pin back neck facings to front facings at shoulders, rst. Stitch and press sa open.
7. Pin neck edge of facing only to neck edge of jacket, wst. Stitch ¾” sa.
8. Place wonder tape on ws of one side of separating zipper. Sandwich zipper tape between front facing edge and front edge of jacket. Stitch. Repeat for remaining zipper tape.
9. Trim neck edge sa to 1/8”.
10. Pin side seams. Try on jacket, make fit adjustments. Trim wst sa to 1/8”.
11. Stitch sleeve seam.
12. Turn lower edge of sleeve to inside on hemline. Secure hem with Steam – a -Seam.
13. Topstitch edge of sleeve ¼” from fold. Trim sa to 1/8”. Roll up sleeve to form cuff.
14. Complete construction of jacket as pattern directs.

Black Travel Pant
Pattern: Yoga pant from Silhouette Patterns, Peggy Sagers.
Fabric: Rayon /Poly blend, amount to pattern.

I like this pant in the rayon/poly blend better than the cotton/poly blend because it bogs out less. It does pill but the ease in making, fitting and construction overrides the pilling. I use 1 and1/2” wide elastic versus the 2” called for in the pattern. I do not cut the width of the waistband to accommodate the smaller width of elastic used. It is easier to construct this way and feels better!

Fashion Sewing Club
October 2011
Kristin

Schoolhouse Tunic

Fabric: Cotton Voile
Pattern: Schoolhouse Tunic from Sew Liberated
Pattern Changes: none
Comments: Well written pattern, easy to construct, complimentary and fairly forgiving fit.

Beaded Tie Necklace

Supplies: Men’s Tie, about 24 wooden beads with large holes, sandpaper
(found the beads at Joann’s)
1. Take tie apart and remove tie interfacing-save for sleeve heads. Restitch by machine and turn right sides out.
2. Roll sandpaper to fit inside bead hole and sand hole smooth.
3. String beads alternating fabric inside or outside of tie. Knot at ends.


Wedding Dress

Fabric: Poly knit
Pattern: Vogue 1256
Pattern Changes:
1. Omitted ruffle on front skirt overlay, lined the overlay and sewed skirt together as a wrap leaving right side seam unattached.
2. Stitched bodice lining to waist, stretching elastic from overlap to overlap. This was needed to hold dress up as it got heavy.
3. Added 4” of length to skirt and took only a ¼” seam at waist.
Construction:
1. Sew bodice as instructed. Serge at armhole seam allowance on lining and skip turning it under. You may want to reinforce armhole of bodice as the weight of the dress tends to pull it out of shape.
2. Try on bodice and mark crisscross of fronts where you want them. Open out bdice/lining and stitch down about and inch. Try on again to check.
3. Skirt: flounce was eliminated so overlay had to be lined as it would roll over and show the wrong side of fabric. Cut a second overlay that will be a mirror of the one you’ve already cut. Pin in pleats and stitch as darts, trimming to take out bulk. Sew overlay, backs and front together for both lining and skirt.starting at the vertical seam of the overlay but leaving the vertical seam of the (side) front open (to decrease bulk). Understitch using triple zigzag along entire previously sewn seam. Turn right side out and “wrap”. Baste top edges together.
4. At this point I realized I was going to need elastic to hold the dress up on my waist and would not need a zipper so I closed up bodice and skirt zipper seams.
5. Pin bodice to skirt, adjusting to fit. Measure tight elastic around waist-not including the bodice overlap section (because it’s too thick to add elastic to the seam) and apply as you stitch the waist seam.


Gingko Jacket

Fabric: Wool and crushed faux suede (facings)
Pattern: Vogue 8654
Pattern Changes:
1. Added a facing at sleeve hem to show when turned up.
2. Omitted two bottom buttons to bring focus closer to face.

Sashiko Stitched Skirt
Fabric: Quilting cotton and regular lining fabric
Pattern: Cute Skirts by My Favorite Things
Pattern Changes:
1. Lining
2. Topstitching with chainstitch
Construction:
1. Construct front and back per pattern.
2. Thread serger for chainstitch using white in the needle and the background color of fabric in looper. (Suggested needle tension is 3.0, looper tension 9.0, stitch length 4.5). Topstitch on one side of seam on each panel.
3. Cut out lining-I traced fronts and backs and cut one lining piece for each. Probably should have cut on the bias or cut out separate panels as I ran into a few issues at side seams on each. Treat lining as underlining and baste to front and back. Finish as directed. I didn’t topstitch the side seams.
Calendar

Dress Your Best-Oct. 15, 1-4 pm, Treadle Yard Goods

Sewing Studio-Oct. 18, 12-8 pm, Bernina/Hancock/Southtown
Oct. 25, 12-8, Bernina/Hancock/Southtown

Faux Leather Bags-Oct. 19, 10-1:30, Bernina/Hancock/Southtown

Kids’ Camp MEA-Oct. 20, 10-12 and/or 12:30-2:30, Bernina/Hancock/Southtown
Oct. 21, 1-4 pm, Make It Sew, Chanhassen

Flatlock Skirt-Oct. 27, 1-3:30 pm, Bernina/Hancock/Southtown
Totally Serger Tee-Oct. 27, 6:30-8:30 pm, Bernina/Hancock/Southtown

Edgy Sewing-Oct. 28, 10:30-3:30, Treadle Yard Goods

November Club at Sewing and Quilting Expo

Thursday, Nov. 10, 9:30 am
Saturday, Nov. 12, 10:15 am
Free with your admission to Expo

No other Club meetings at any other locations in November

Material Girls
www.materialgirlsewing.com
952-201-3863
fb-Material Girls Sewing MN

FASHION SEWING CLUB
October 2011
Laurel Ely

Garment Type: Missoni-Inspired Dress
Pattern Company & Number: Kwik Sew 3756
Fabric: Pont de Roma — Top contrast enough for
sleeves plus bodice; bottom about 1 yard
Notions:
• Thread
• Interfacing
Pattern Changes and Cutting Directions:
• Redraw top contrast by making a line approximately 3” + s.a. from bottom of armhole on both front and back.
• From center front neckline, narrow straight edge to 2” toward armhole. Connect a line straight down from front shoulder edge to the 2” neck line.
• Move dart lines over to coincide with the new neck edge.
• Cut the skirt front and back out of the main color adding s.a. to top edges.
• Cut sleeves out of contrast.
Construction Directions:
• Sew back pieces together.
• Follow construction on pattern for front neck edge.
• Sew front contrast piece to main front piece.
• Follow the rest of the construction as per pattern.
• Note: I interfaced a piece of lining fabric for both front and back edges and then basted them onto the garment. I felt my fabric needed this stability.

Garment Type: Blouse
Pattern Company & Number: Silhouette 700 (Alex’s Blouse)
for body; Burda 7967 or pattern of your choice for collar, neck
facings and neck edge
Fabric: Cotton voile as per pattern
Notions:
• Thread
• Interfacing (I almost always use this on the collar and facings.)
• Buttons
Pattern Changes and Cutting Directions:
• Lay Burda pattern over the Silhouette pattern, matching center fronts and shoulder line and trace new pattern for front and back neck edges, including any notches or dots.
• Match the back edge to the Burda pattern. Use that back neck facing.
• Cut undercollar on bias, adding s.a.
Construction Directions:
• Sew under collar pieces together. Sew to top collar.
• Sew front and back pieces together as per Silhouette pattern.
• Sew shoulder seams.
• Match collar to shoulder seams and front dots.
• Finish as per pattern.

Garment Type: Jacket and Skirt
Pattern Company & Number: Butterick 5467
for jacket; McCall’s 6247 for skirt
Fabric: Pont de Roma — skirt length plus Jacket, view D
with extra for length.
Notions:
• Thread
• Interfacing, optional
Pattern Changes and Cutting Directions:
• Skirt to pattern
• Since this pattern was intended for woven fabrics and I was using a knit, I went down a size.
• Lengthen jacket to 3-5” above knees.
• Cut the collar using the one seam collar (express collar a la Sewing Workshop) as found on Nancy Zieman’s website.
• Draw a cut-on front facing by placing the facing pattern piece over the front edge at the seam lines.
• All else to pattern.
Construction Directions:
• As per pattern.

Garment Type: Swing Jacket, retro pattern from 1948
Fabric: Wool / poly blend
Notes: I added a contrast piping on the front facing. All else was to pattern. I experienced some problems with the lining of the sleeves being about 1” too short and needed to recut them. Also, the body of the lining was short, so this was a little frustrating.

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