November 2011

FASHION SEWING CLUB
November 2011
Laurel Ely

Garment Type: Coat Dress
Pattern Company & Number: Burda 8092 – a petite size
Fabric: Poly-blend suiting
Notions:
• Thread
• Interfacing
• 12 buttons
Pattern Changes and Cutting Directions:
• Add length to all the bodice pieces to make it into a dress. Don’t forget the hem allowance.
• Cut two leather-like strips the length of the front piece plus 2” wide. This can be either on the straight or cross grain.
• Cut a bias strip 2” plus the area between the front facings. This pattern does not have a back facing, and I prefer to cover that area with either a hand-drawn facing or a strip of bias.
Construction Directions:
• Fold the leather pieces in half lengthwise. Add to the seam on the front piece with folded edge facing away from the seam allowance. Baste into place. (I used the little clamps to hold this together until I could secure it with basting.
• Follow the pattern until the collar. At that point I inserted the collar as if there were a back facing and the used the bias strip to cover the unfinished seams.

Garment Type: Blouse
Pattern Company & Number: Silhouettes #700 (Alex’s blouse)
Fabric: Silky polyester
Notions:
• Thread
• Interfacing
• Buttons
Pattern Changes and Cutting Directions:
• Eliminate the ruffle
Construction Directions:
• Follow the pattern instructions.
• This fabric was extremely difficult to handle. I ended up spraying the pieces with spray starch to stabilize it. This worked quite well.

Garment Type: Wool Tailored Jacket
Pattern Company & Number: Simplicity 2446
Fabric: 100% wool
Notions:
• Thread
• Interfacing, optional
• Twill tape
• 2 buttons
Pattern Changes and Cutting Directions:
• I cut a back stay out of muslin
• I interfaced the sleeve and bottom hems
Construction Directions:
• I used traditional tailoring techniques.
• Baste the back stay into the jacket
• Tape the roll lines of lapels and collar with twill tape.
• Press, press, press. This is a most important step if you want your garment to look “handmade” and not “homemade.”
• Follow all other directions according to pattern.

Debbie Petersen

Wrap Dress (Sorry, didn’t get a picture)
Pattern: Fit Me Patterns, 6697NO
Fabric: Pattern requires stretch fabric such as a four way stretch jersey.
Description: This pattern was custom drafted for my measurements. My only fit issue continues to be in length – I am short and short waisted so I needed to make a few adjustments, otherwise fit is satisfactory.

Novelty Knit Top
Pattern: Kwik Sew 3036, adapted.
Fabric: Any soft, knit that drapes, amount to pattern plus sleeve length.
Description: A fitted bottom sleeve is added to the pattern’s original short sleeve.
A shirt tail hem is also added for a sporty look.

Navy Knit Denim –Look Jean Jacket with Stripe Shirt
Patterns: The jacket is Kwik Sew 2895 and the shirt is New Look 6704
Fabrics: Jacket is made from a moderate stretch knit. The shirt is made from light weight cotton.
Description: The pocket flaps on the jacket have been eliminated. A faux flat felled seam is created using a cover stitch and decorative thread. The sleeves on the blouse are too wide so a button pleat was added at the hem.

Kristin Henak

Black and White Wool Sleeveless Jacket
Pattern: Simplicity 1942, adapted
Fabrics: Double faced wool and faux leather
Pattern Changes:
1. Omit facings and under collar
2. Finished all edges with faux leather trim
3. Lapped seam application for princess seams
Construction:
1. Stitch princess seams WST for fitting-side seams RST. Make fit changes as needed. Chalk princess seam lines on the side you want underneath (for a lapped seam). Trim seam at seam allowance of side you want on top. Lap seams, folding remaining seam allowance out of the way. Triple cover stitch lapped seam. Rip out stitches from leftover seam allowance. Trim seam at an angle with duckbilled scissors so inside color will show.
2. Repeat steps with shoulder seams but you won’t be able to coverstitich unless your serger has enough space under the arm. Topstitch with sewing machine.
3. Topstitch side seams.
4. Cut faux leather trim 2 1/2” wide.
5. Stitch RS of trim to WS of collar (1/4” SA). Wrap trim around to RS of collar, stitch in ditch and topstitch again ¼” away. Trim leather.
6. Stitch RS of trim to RS of jacket center front (5/8” SA). Wrap trim around to WS of jacket and stitch as above. Wider trim will give stability to edge.
7. Repeat above step for hem of jacket.
8. Stitch collar to jacket with WS of collar to right side of jacket and RS of faux leather to RS of collar. Use 5/8” SA.
9. Open out faux leather so RS shows and topstitch to wrong side of jacket to encase SA.
10. Sew on snaps and buttons.

Geometric Tee
Pattern: Vogue 8636
Fabrics: Rayon knit
Description: Made to pattern but instead of darting neckband, buttons were used to fold neckband out and down.

Eileen Fisher Sweater
Pattern: KwikSew 3801
Fabric: “Missoni” poly knit
Pattern Changes:
1. Neckline is redrawn (pattern neckline is low)
2. Armhole/shoulder is made more vertical
3. Sleeves swapped for long version
4. Neckband is twisted as in Vogue 8582
Construct as directed with above changes.

Ruched Neck Top
Pattern: Kwiksew 3915
Fabric: Sophia knit
Pattern Changes: Made to pattern except for ruching at center back neck, otherwise it stood up too straight in back or needed to be folded down. Suggest a lighter weight or more drapey knit for this neck treatment.

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