May 2011

Fashion Sewing Club
May 2011
Debbie Petersen
Shawl Collar Jacket
Pattern: Simplicity 2858 – Project Runway
Fabric: Textured cotton, amount to pattern.
Pattern Changes:
1. On jacket front pattern piece add ¼” to center front line towards jacket edge.
2. Cut off the small area from ¼” inch drawn line. This eliminates an area for closures on the jacket so that the fronts meet at the center. Repeat for front facing pattern piece.
Construction Directions:
1. Jacket is made to pattern except for closures.
2. The collar/facing treatment is a little different so it might be easier to make lining first. Then the jacket construction will be a breeze!

Summer Shift: McCall’s 2401
Fabric: Linen amount to pattern.
Pattern Changes:
1. Dress is made to pattern.
2. It is a semi-fitted dress so I recommend making muslin or do a lot of basting.

Sophia Trench Coat – third version.
Pattern: N0. 99 The Sophia Trench Coat, Boutique Chic by Serendipity Studio
Fabric: Medium weight cotton – home dec or jacket weight. 4 yards of trim.
Pattern Changes: none
Construction Changes:
1. To construct collar: place collars wst. Stitch collars 5/8” from outside edge of collar top and sides. Trim sa to ¼”.
2. To apply trim: Cut ½” from trim width (my trim was 1 and ½” wide).
3. On ws of trim mark a line ½ “ from edge. Place ws of one short edge of collar along ½” mark of trim. Pin and baste trim to collar. Fold unstitched edge of trim to rs of collar. Using a topstitching needle stitch trim to collar. (Make a designer decision you would like the corners of the trim to be constructed!)
4. If applying Hong Kong finish to outside edge of front and neck facings use fusible thread in bobbin when stitching bias trim to seam edge. Fold bias trim to inside and press. The fusible tread adds security when doing the final stitching for the Hong Kong finish.
5. Baste collar to neck edge as pattern instructs. To apply facing to coat, stitch facing to coat along neck edge only. Trim sa, under stitch etc.
6. Place front edges of facing to coat, wst. Stitch 5/8” from outside edge. Trim to ¼”.
7. Apply trim in same manner as collar.
8. I lined the sleeves of the coat treating the sleeve and lining as one piece – sort of underling but placing lining to sleeve wst to give a more finished appearance to jacket inside.
Fashion Sewing Club
May 2011
Debbie Petersen

Lace Tee and Tank: Kwik Sew 2740 and Kwik Sew 2948
Fabric: Lace knit and 2 yards fold over elastic for Tee. Very light weight knit for tank, (swim wear lining), amount to pattern.
Pattern Changes:
1. Convert Tee sleeve to cap sleeve, using the cap shape from your pattern collection or shape bottom of sleeve to your liking.
2. No pattern or construction changes were made to the tank.
Construction Directions:
1. Stabilize front shoulder seams. Pin front to back at shoulders. Stitch or serge.
2. Make neck band using fold over elastic. Quarter neck edge and neck band. Mark with pins.
3. Open fold over elastic. Place ws of tee neck edge to ws of elastic center. Baste elastic to tee, stretching elastic slightly. Pin remaining edge of elastic to rs of Tee. At ¼” marks secure with a few machine stitches. Topstitch the elastic neckband to neck edge, again stretching slightly.
4. Cut a length of fold over elastic the same length as the sleeve hem measurement. Match center of sleeve to center of elastic. Pin, extending ½’ of elastic beyond sleeve hem at side seams of sleeve. This makes it easier to control the stretch of the elastic. Baste elastic to sleeve hem as indicated above. I found it helpful to stitch from center to side seam.
5. Continue Tee shirt construction as pattern directs.

Contrast Banded Skirt: New Look 6843
Fabric: Cotton for skirt, amount as pattern recommends. Optional lining as per pattern and ½ – 1 yard cotton for contrast band.
Pattern Changes: none
Construction Changes:
1. Construct skirt up to waistband. Cut a 2 and ½ inch of bias strip from contrast the measurement of skirt waist plus seam allowance. (It may be necessary to piece the bias strips.)
2. Press bias strip wst. Pin cut edge of bias strip to ws of skirt waist edge. Stitch at 5/8” sa. Trim seam to ¼”. Press sa toward bias band. Pin bias strip to rs of skirt, wrapping bias ends at each side of zipper. Topstitch band in place.
3. Determine hemline for your skirt. Add ¼” below hemline, cut off the remaining hem allowance.
4. Cut a 2 and ½ inch of bias strip from contrast the measurement of skirt hem plus seam allowance. (It may be necessary to piece the bias strips.)
5. Press bias strip wst. Pin cut edge of bias strip to ws of skirt hem edge. Stitch at 1/4” sa. Press sa toward skirt. Pin bias strip to rs of skirt. Topstitch contrast band in place.

Fashion Sewing Club
May 2011
Kristin

Tank Variations:
Reversible Tank
Pattern: Vogue 8559
Fabric: matte jersey, cotton knit, lace knit
Pattern Changes:
1. Use only front pattern piece.

Construction Directions:
1. Lengthen neck band to accommodate longer scoop in back. Neck band is applied flat so cut it long and see how much you need if you don’t want to measure curve.

Sheer Overlay
Pattern: Vogue 8559 and Sewing Workshop Mix It Tank
Fabric: Cotton knit, patterned sheer
Pattern Changes:
1. Add a sheer overlay to tank in front only.
Construction Directions:
1. Cut two fronts and bands from cotton knit from V8559. Cut one front from sheer from Mix It. Lay sheer over knit and lower neckline and armholes by about 1 ½”.
2. Narrow hem neck, armholes, vents at sides and lower edge.
3. Stitch shoulder seams inserting sheer but be sure it won’t get in way of banding.
4. Bind neck and armholes.
5. Sew side seams making sure vents begin at same spot on each side.
6. Hem bottom of tank.

Reversible Neckline Tank
Pattern: Vogue 8559
Fabric: Knit
Pattern Changes:
1. Use only front and deepen neckline as above.
2. Change neckline of one “front” to a vee.
Construction Directions:
1. Again, you’ll need longer neck band piece.
1. Construct as in Reversible Tank above.

Reversible Skirt
Pattern: Christine Jonson A-line
Fabric: Knit
Pattern Changes:
1. Skirt made reversible.
Construction Directions:
1. Cut one skirt from each fabric. Sew vertical seams. Just a hint: be careful sewing side seams-sew two sides to one back to avoid ripping.
2. Pin waist together and then pin lower edges. Serge lower edge and understitch.
3. Flatlock waist edge leaving a space for threading elastic. Cover or chainstitch elastic casing and insert elastic-stitch to correct length, close up hole.
Polka Dot Top
Pattern: Vogue 2218
Fabric: Rayon Challis
Pattern Changes:
1. Omit zipper.
Construction Directions:
1. Construct as directed but omit zipper. Center back seam was not placed on fold to keep shaping options.
2. For my body shape the bust was lowered, pattern’s petite option was used to raise waist, side seam made smaller just at bust, hip made larger. Sleeve runs a bit snug for me.

Calendar

Basic Sergery-Serger Skills-Specialty Feet-Thursday, May 19, Hancock/Bernina
Tailoring Tools-Saturday, June 4, Treadle Yard Goods
Serger Skills-Rolled Edge-Saturday, June 4, Treadle Yard Goods
Kids’ Camps each month

June Fashion Sewing Club
Thursday, June 9, 10:30 and 6:30, Hancock/Bernina/Southtown
Monday, June 13, 1:30 and 6:30, Make It Sew, Chanhassen
Tuesday, June 14, 10:30 and 6:30. Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

FASHION SEWING CLUB
May 2011
Laurel Ely

Garment 1 Type: Suit Jacket
Pattern Company & Number: Butterick 5253, View A

Fabric: Polyester Suiting in Lavender to pattern and contrasting fabric
for back facing and strips for Hong Kong seam allowance edges

Notions:
• Thread
• Interfacing
• One package grommets
• One narrow scarf or wide ribbon

Pattern Changes and Cutting Directions:
• Eliminate lining patterns
• Eliminate the sleeve ruffle
• Eliminate pockets
• Cut off seam allowance on long edge of front facing
• Cut a back facing of the contrast fabric, using the center back pattern. This should be 7” deep at CB.
• Cut enough strips on the bias for Hong Kong finish. I cut them 1 ¼” wide and the trim off the extra amount after seam is finished.
• Cut some interfacing for the neck edge, using the back neck edge for the pattern. Makes this 2 ½” wide.
• If fabric is thin and drapey, you will need to cut some interfacing for the front edge, too. Make this 2 ½” wide also, using the front facing pattern as a guideline.
• Narrow sleeves and add 5” for cuff

Construction Directions:
• Baste on interfacing at back neck and front edges.
• Follow pattern instructions for construction.
• Use Hong Kong finish on all vertical seams and jacket and bottom of sleeves.
• Topstitch jacket front and neck edges and bottom edge through front facing.
• Add grommets to front edges5/8”

Garment 2 Type: Lavender Tee Shirt

Pattern Company & Number: Kwik Sew 3769, View B for body
and View A for sleeves

Fabric: Interlock with some spandex
Notions: Thread

Pattern Changes and Cutting Directions:
• Raise neck edge 2 ½”
• Cut neck strip 2 ½”

Construction Directions:
• Follow pattern instructions, except for neck strip
• Sew short ends of neck strip.
• Fold in half the long way and make snips in the edge every ½”.
• Start matching those snips off by ½”. This will make the fabric twist.
• Apply the neckline piece as to pattern.
• Finish the tee.

Garment 3 Type: Black Denim Dress – Inspiration is a black
denim dress from Sak’s Fifth Avenue

Pattern Company & Number: Burda 8222, View A, for dress
and Simplicity 2885 for placket and collar

Fabric: Black stretch denim to pattern

Notions:
• Thread
• Interfacing, optional
• Contrasting top stitching thread or two spools of contrasting fabric
• 16 sewing machine needle or topstitching needle
• 3-4 ¾” – 1” buttons, optional

Pattern Changes and Cutting Directions:
• Lay the center front pattern piece on the fold, eliminating the facing turnback and the collar.
• Cut a collar and front facing piece, using the Simplicity pattern. These two patterns have the same shoulder line, so no changes are necessary in that area.
• Mark the facing piece dots and the front of the dress dots where there the placket will be very carefully.

Construction Directions:
• Follow construction for the front placket according to the Simplicity pattern. Do this as a first step.
• Topstitch the front placket.
• If using buttons, sew buttonholes now.
• Follow construction for the rest of the dress according to the Burda pattern
• Topstitch the vertical seams on both front and back. Hint: I waited to do this until the shoulders were sewn together and then sewed in one long line over the shoulder seams.
• Topstitch the hem allowances on the sleeves.

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