June 2011
Fashion Sewing Club
June 2011
Debbie Petersen
CL Designer Tee
Pattern: Kwik Sew 3463, view A
Fabric and Notions: Five to six similar weight knit prints in varying amounts: You will need three knits in the amount of your front and back width and length measurement, plus seam allowances. One knit is needed in the measurement of your sleeve width and lengths, plus seam allowances. The remaining knits are used in small amounts for neck band and bottom pieces of right front. (Check your scrap stash!)
Contrasting Wooly nylon thread for serger loopers, or decorative thread if using a standard sewing machine.
Pattern Changes:
1. Trace full front pattern piece, allowing extra space on tracing paper for extensions. Be sure to mark straight of grain lines on both right and left sides of front pattern piece.
2. Starting at waist on the front and back draw a line down to hem 2” inches out from original side seam. See drawing.
3. Place a mark one inch from center front at neck edge of front pattern piece toward the left side. Place another mark 6 inches from the center front at the hem edge of the pattern piece toward the left side. Connect the two marks to divide the front pattern piece asymmetrically. Cut pattern piece apart on this line, making sure to add sa to cut edges.
4. On left front pattern piece, remove one inch from bottom at hem.
5. On the right front pattern piece, remove two and ½ inches at hem. Save the cutoff piece to use as the pattern piece for the bottom of the right front.
6. Be sure to follow grain lines when placing right and left front on fabric when cutting.
Construction:
1. Stabilize ws of front shoulders seams.
2. Pin front to backs at shoulder seams, rst. If using a standard sewing machine: stitch seams using a ¼” sa. Then use a decorative thread and zigzag over sa (wide zig and short length.) To serge seams, use a three thread narrow overlock with wooly nylon in loopers. I serged each seam twice so it would stand out more.
3. Pin cut edge of neckband to ws of neck edge of shirt front and back. Stitch or serge, having the neck band under the presser foot. Using a press cloth, press band sa down towards shirt hem.
4. Pin bottom band of left shirt front to left shirt front at hem, wst. Stitch or serge.
5. Pin sleeve to armhole, wst. Baste; trim sa then stitch or serge.
6. Zigzag or serge one inch at bottom of each side seam of sleeve and around bottom hem of sleeve. Pin shirt at side seams and sleeves RST. Stitch from bottom of shirt to just below the decorative stitching on sleeve side seams, leaving about a ¾” vent at sleeve hem.
CL Designer Tee continued:
7. Zigzag or serge the hems of shirt back, right and left fronts.
8. Pin left shirt front to right shirt front, WST. Zigzag or serge seam.
9. Enjoy your one-of-a-kind designer tee!
Flatlock Panel Skirt
Pattern: Favorite Things Cute Skirt V023
Fabric and Notions: Medium weight cotton such as sateen amount to pattern.
Decorative thread such as Polysheen, Sulky or Mettler. ¾” elastic for back waist.
Pattern Changes:
1. The skirt is rather long so be sure to check your hem length.
2. Eliminate one back panel.
3. Add darts to left and right center back panel. (1/2” by 4” tapered length).
4. Cut down width of waistband to 2 and ½ inches.
Construction:
1. Thread the serger for a 3-thread flatlock stitch. Use serger thread in both loopers and decorative thread in the left needle. I set my needle tension to 1, the upper looper tension to 4 (one notch above normal) and the lower looper tension to the highest number. Check your manual for what works best for your serger.
2. This skirt can be made using a standard machine – consider using decorative thread and decorative stitching to topstitch each panel for example.
3. Flatlock 3 panels rst to form front of skirt. The sa is 5/8” so adjust your stitching line as necessary. Pull the seams flat. Rows of parallel stitches will be on the rs of the skirt. Press sa flat.
4. Follow pattern directions for construction of front waistband, except flatlock the waistband to front edge of skirt, rst.
5. Stitch darts in right and left center back panels.
6. Flatlock the remaining 4 panels. Pull seams and press flat.
7. Follow pattern directions and stitch the back waistband to back skirt panels. (I did not use a flatlock stitch here.)
8. Continue skirt as directed in pattern.
Pattern Review: Kwik Sew 3778:
As a fan of Kwik Sew patterns this one is a little disappointing. The front length from shoulder to bust is quite long. I usually shorten the front and back pattern pieces in this area 3/8” in all my patterns. I did baste the shoulder and side seams and tried on the dress and found that I needed to shorten that area even more on both front and back. In the end I shortened that area one inch on front and back. The pattern goes together quite easily but I think you could easily adapt another reliable pattern to get the Kwik Sew look.
FASHION SEWING CLUB
June 2011
Laurel Ely
Garment 1 Type: Casual Sweatshirt-type Jacket
Pattern Company & Number: Great Copy 1240
Fabric: French Terry to pattern
Notions:
• Thread
• Interfacing
• 1 package of gold beads
• 3-4 yards decorative ribbon, depending on length of jacket
Pattern Changes and Cutting Directions:
• Cut to pattern (Mine has been altered to raise the underarm
seams and shorten the shoulder line
• Also, mine has been altered to have cut-on facings
• Soften the top of the center front to a gentle curve.
Construction Directions:
• Sew shoulder seams together.
• Mark jacket at 1 ¾” away from center front foldline.
• Sew ribbon onto jacket where you have placed the markings. The pleats in the ribbon are completely random in one, two and three pleats. The two sides will not match. Where the front curves around to the neckline, there should be a 2-3 pleats on an angle in order to get around the curve.
• Finish construction of the jacket as to pattern.
• Sew gold beads at the top of each group of pleats.
Garment 2 Type: White tee shirt/tunic
Pattern Company & Number: Kwik Sew 3467
Fabric: Cotton Interlock to pattern and ½ yard of all-over lace
Notions: Thread, 3-4 small contrast buttons (optional)
Pattern Changes and Cutting Directions:
• Raise neck edge 1”
• Shorten the top to your desired length.
• Cut cap-like sleeves.
• Cut neck strip 1½” wide on the cross grain.
• Draw a line, starting at the end of the dart at the center front and going up to the sleeve where the notches are. Use your French curve to get a nice gentle curve. Mark each pattern piece where they will join before you cut the pattern apart.
• Cut pattern apart on that line and add seam allowance to both pieces.
• On the small part of the top pattern, add ¼” s.a. to the center front.
• On this smaller top section , cut two of the interlock and 2 of the lace.
Construction Directions:
• Baste lace onto front pieces.
• Sew a strip of the interlock over the front edge as a French seam.
• Sew the CF together.
• Sew the skirt section to the top front.
• Continue as to pattern.
•
Garment 3 Type: Sheer ruffle front blouse
Pattern Company & Number: New Look 6356
Fabric: Sheer polyester to pattern
Notions:
• Thread
• Wash-away Solvy
Pattern Changes and Cutting Directions:
• Cut front with a ¼” s.a. along the fold line.’
• Cut 2 ruffles following attached pattern.
Construction Directions:
• Dissolve some Solvy in water and brush onto ruffle. Let dry. This will help in doing the rolled hem.
• Sew ruffles together at the short straight end.
• Edge finish the outer curve of the ruffle with a rolled hem or finish of your choice.
• Sew shoulder seams together.
• Attach ruffle, matching center back and following the front edge of the cf.
• Sew cf seam.
• Complete as per pattern.
Other garments sewn to pattern:
• Plaid cotton blouse – Simplicity 2599, v. E
• Cotton flowered skirt –Simplicity 2258, v. C (same as last month’s lavender skirt.)
• Fuchsia cotton blouse – New Look 6356
Fashion Sewing Club
June 2011
Kristin
Flounce Vest
Pattern: Simplicity 2633
Fabric: Tencel Bamboo (use a new sharp needle with this fabric)
Elliot Berman Cotton
Pattern Changes:
1. Cut two of fronts, backs and one flounce of each fabric.
2. Omit facings but don’t forget to interface.
Construction Directions: (try using a glue stick to hold slippery fabrics in place)
1. Assemble front and back, stitch together at shoulders. Baste side seams and try on for fit if desired.
2. Sew shoulder seams.
3. Stitch each vest together at armholes.
4. Stitch flounce together and turn and press. Another option is to serge edges of flounce together. Pin and/or baste flounce to neck.
5. Stitch starting 2” from side seams, up center fronts and around to other side seam.
6. Turn right side out (pull each front through shoulders) and sew side seams.
7. Turn bottom edge right sides together and stitch leaving a space for turning.
8. Turn right side out and stitch up turning hole.
9. The bamboo seemed to want to hang down and stretch a bit-topstitch each vertical seam from bottom up using a walking foot.
10. Make buttonhole on one center front and sew button on both surfaces of opposite side to make it reversible.
Circles Tee
Pattern: Vogue 8636
Fabric: Knit blend
Pattern Changes:
1. Lowered neckline using Vogue 8582
2. Neckband is slide/twist version-3” wide, 1” markings
Construction Directions:
1. As instructed in pattern with changes above.
2.
Travel Pants
Pattern: Silhouette Yoga Pant #3400
Fabric: Ponte Roma
Made to pattern
Forget Me Not Crossover Tee
Pattern: Stretch & Sew French Trim T’s
Fabric: Wool Knit
Made to pattern
Pamela’s Patterns: Printed on heavy paper, darted and undarted fronts, shortening armhole option.
Pattern: Twinset
Fabric: Blue Cut-out
Made to pattern. Size Small-should have added more hip width. Not sure about the facing technique.
Pattern: Perfect Tee
Fabric: Off grain stripe
Made to pattern. Like the hemline and fit.
Pattern: Cool Cardigans-Draped Front
Fabric: Gray knit
Made to pattern. Liked the fit.
Linen “Shirt Dress”
Pattern: Vogue 1233
Fabric: Midweight linen
Pattern Changes:
1. No lining
2. No pockets
3. No cap sleeve
4. No hidden button placket
5. Interfacing was omitted for collar only.
Construction Directions:
1. Follow pattern directions with the following exceptions:
a. Cut two left front plackets instead of the one with the extension.
b. Serge one long edge of each placket. After sewing the other raw edge to dress, the serged edge is caught in topstitching.
c. After attaching collar and stitching in the ditch when collar is folded along fold line, pin or baste unattached collar edge to neck edge, stitch in ditch to keep collar edge in place and trim excess seam allowance if desired.
d. Sleeve cap should be applied first and then lining attached at underarm or a bias binding can be applied at this point if you aren’t lining. For sleeveless version, cut bias strip and stitch to armhole. Turn to inside and stitch in the ditch. Trim close to stitching.
Note on buttonholes: Pattern calls for button placement near the top of buttonhole for buttons above the waist and near the bottom of buttonhole for buttons below waist. If you use the hidden placket no one will see. I did it that way anyway-can you tell?
White “Eyelet” Dress
Pattern: Simplicity 2404(current number) or 0593 (previous number)
Fabric: White eyelet woven with denim look fabric underneath
Pattern Changes:
1. Cut size 14 bodice and about 18 (the pattern stopped at 14) for the skirt. Increased the size of front pleat so skirt and bodice seam would match. Skirt back was blended at side seams.
2. Design detail-fabric right sides were reversed for hem facing (added because of shortness) and neck facing.so the blue would show.
Calendar
Friday, June 10, SR Harris trip, 9:30 am
Wednesday, June 15 You Pick a Project, Make It Sew, Chanhassen
Thursday, June 16, Basic Sergery and Serger Skills: Rolled Edge, Hancock/Bernina/Southtown
Monday, June 20, Kids’ Camp, Make It Sew, Chanhassen
Monday, June 27, Kids’ Camp, Hancock/Bernina/Southtown
July Fashion Sewing Club
Monday, July 11, Make It Sew, Chanhassen
Tuesday, July 12, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul
Thursday, July 14, Hancock/Bernina/Southtown
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