July 2017

Material Girls Fashion Sewing Club
July 2017
Debbie’s Garments:

Pink Fringe Jacket: New Look 6496, View A, Cotton Blend basket weave, amount to pattern.
Pattern and Construction Changes:
Made to pattern except for the following changes: Lined sleeves and used the selvage fringe for jacket center fronts, neck edge and pocket trim. Top – Butterick 6214, View C. (2016 summer make)

Raglan Tee With Back Underlay: Vogue 9207, Cotton Knit, amount to pattern.
Pattern and Construction Changes:
1. Used rayon bamboo knit for underlay rather woven as patten directs.
2. Traditional neckband rather than shoulder seam neckband construction.
3. Sleeves changed to 3/4 length. Sleeve made from contrast knit.
4. Followed pattern direction for underlay construction – not pleased with the results so after lots of trial and error, pinning, and marking the underlay was cut off at the upper edge. The sides and upper edge were cleaned finished with serger stitch and the hem was cover stitched.
5. The underlay was then stitched to shirt back at hem of upper back.
6. I appreciate the construction detail of a meitered hem but there are many unecessary steps to creating a great tee, especially adding the underlay in my opinion.

Blouson Knit Tee-shirt Dress: McCalls 7350, C., Cotton/lycra knit amount to pattern.
Pattern and Construction Changes:
1. Pattern calls for a woven – I used a knit, going down a size, copying the blouson design from a ready-to-wear knit dress.
2. Basically I used the pattern as a guide to determine the length of bodice to get the blouson look. Using a favorite knit tee and skirt pattern would work to construct this design.

Orange Knit Poolside Dress: McCalls 7122, view B,amount to pattern.
Pattern and Construction Changes:
1. I made a rayon tee using this pattern last summer and really like it.
2. I raised the neckline of the tee one inch and did the same for the dress.
3. When I made the tee the back was placed on the fold creating a little more draping. For the dress I wanted the shaping created with the center back seam and did not place the back on the fold.
4. Quick and easy summer knit dress, one of my favorites.

August 2017 Fashion Sewing Club:
*Saturday, August 5, 10:30 at Treadle – note change from Second Saturday of the month
Tuesday, August 8, 10:30 at treadle
Thursday, August 10, 6:30 at JoAnn-Edina

Fashion Sewing Club
July 2017

Short Summer Jacket
StyleArc Harriet Jacket pattern
Cotton novelty woven

1. Great pattern with bust dart, elbow dart and shaped center back seam.
2. Cut facings on cross grain to achieve cross hatch effect of weave and didn’t interface.
3. Shortened sleeves-they are long in pattern-wanted more bracelet length and hemmed with a separate piece also cross grain for cross hatch effect.
4. Pattern also includes lining pieces.

Marcy Hoodie
Vogue 9244
Novelty knit

1. Pattern itself has some issues so be sure you have a newer one-faint printing, only one size pocket-which causes problems. Also some of illustrations could be better.
2. Made to pattern-cut own bias binding.
3. Vee neckline is lower than it appears in pattern picture.

Twin Set to Marcy Hoodie
Vogue 9244 pattern hack
Activewear knit

1. Place CF of Front piece on fold and change neck for a crew neck-raised almost 2.5”. Trimmed 1” from entire neckline after assembly.
2. Omitted pocket-this will result in uneven hem. Shortened and evened out hem.
3. Shortened sleeves and added neckband. Shortened hem.

Designer Cover Up
Vogue 1551
Cotton voile

1. Pattern appears to need a bit of crispness to give it shape.
2. There is a pleat in back bodice and skirt that I omitted.
3. Created own bias for binding. Added binding at center front of skirt with both layers sewn together.
4. Fun for summer-may wear it in public in a fancier fabric, probably better at home ☺.
5. Wish I would have cut overskirt on cross grain for more cross hatching as illustrated on pattern cover.

Alice Super Flare Tunic
McCall’s 7407
Activewear knit

1. Made to pattern but an error made center back seam narrower.
2. Sleeve is on smaller side.
3. Hem dipped front and back after assembly. Side seam is 3” shorter than center front so shortened at CF and CB by 2.5”.