January 2012

January Fashion Sewing Club

Debbie Petersen – Jan 2012

Aurelia Cardigan
Pattern: Sew Liberated #113, adapted with bottom front from Vogue 8780. Fabric: Single wool knit and cotton/silk ( Radiance).

Pattern Changes:

1.Usefront,back,neckfacing,sleevesandrufflepatternpiecesfromSewLiberatedpattern. 2. Cut 4 skirt pattern pieces from Vogue pattern.
3. Eliminate woven skirt pieces.

Construction:

1. FollowpatterninstructionsfromSewLiberatedpatternforbackneckfacing,step2,a-c.
2. For ruffles, fold in half along the length wst and press a center crease. I found it helpful at this point to clean finish the cut edge of the ruffle before stitching a basting/gathering stitch.

1. Pattern suggests using Steam – a- Seam to baste ruffle to neck but I found it easier to use lots of pins instead. Continue ruffles and steps 4, 5 and 6 per pattern. (hint – once ruffles are stitched use a lot of

steam to achieve a ready -to- wear look.

1. Pin back skirts at center, rst. Stitch.
2. Hem cf edges of skirt fronts. Pin one skirt front at side to skirt back at side, rst. Stitch. Repeat for

remaining skirt front.

1. Pin bodice to skirt, matching cb and cf, easing in any fullness. Stitch. Complete cardigan as pattern directs.

Minky Faux Fur Jacket – Pelage jacket copied from Patagonia
Pattern: Vogue 8300, View A adapted
Fabric and Notions: Minky fur and rayon lining, amount to pattern fun 1” buttons and snaps.

Pattern Changes:

1. Ifyouhaveenoughfabricchangethecollartoaonepieceforeaseinconstruction.

(Louisecutting Method).

1. Lengthen sleeves for long sleve.
2. Straighten cb seam on jacket back and place on fold.
3. Shorten the width of the collar 1/2 – 1 inch and change rounded edges to straight.
4. Refer to the May 2010 club sheet and make a back neck facing pattern piece and a front lining pattern.

piece. Use the jacket sleeve pattern for lining. Also use the adapted back jacket pattern piece for lining and add 1/2” at cb for pleat in lining. The front facing of the jacket also needs to be trimmed to accommodate for lining.

1. It is not necessary to interface this fabric.

Construction:

1. The Minky is easy to sew but very MESSY! I serged all edges of pattern pieces.

2. Stitch darts in jacket and lining pieces, front and back.
3. Stitch front to back at shoulders. Repeat for lining.
4. Construct collar. Pin collar to neck edge, matching notches. Baste.

5. Stitch front facing at shoulders to back neck facing at shoulders.
6. Turn front facing along fold line. Pin to neck edge. Stitch. Trim and carefully press. 7. Stitch side seams of jacket and lining.
8. Follow pattern instructions for sleeve construction. Repeat for lining.
9. Hem jacket and sleeves.
10.Pin lining to jacket at the neck and front facing. Stitch lining to jacket. Hem. 11.Sew on buttons and snaps.

 

Draped Front Knit Tee
Pattern: Kwik Sew 2756
Fabric: The pattern calls for a woven such as challis, crepe,or silk but I used a drapey single rayon knit.

You may want to go down a size due to more built in stretch and ease.

Pattern Changes:

1. Increase the width of the front facing about 2” from each shoulder edge. This allows that facing to stay put.

2. Extend front and back at shoulders about 1”.
3. Place pattern pieces on straight of grain instead of bias.

No construction changes!

Kristin Henak

Ellen Tracy Swing Coat

Pattern: Burda 7587

Fabric: Wool with flannel back satin lining

Pattern Changes: Welt pockets added.

Construction:

1. Follow pattern except for pockets.  Instead insert diagonal welt pockets about  6” below underarm and 3” from side seam.  Peggy Sagers had an excellent example in her Trench Coat II webcast at about 11:52 minutes. Here’s the link
   Welt Pocket-Peggy Sagers’ Method

   For great video illustrations of this go to silhouettepatterns.com and watch her Trench Coat II video at about 11 minutes in.

   1. Draw placement line.
   a. Woman’s welt 6”
   b. Man’s welt 7”
   c. Diagonal/slant position for 5’8” person
   i. approx. 6” below underarm
   ii. 5” from side seam at top
   iii. 4” from side seam at bottom
   2. Cut welt 4 ½” X 6 ½” or as you like, interface
   a. Fold in half lengthwise, stitch short ends, ¼” SA
   b. Turn RSO, put in buttonhole if desired
   c. Cut lining to size desired but must be at least an extra 1” wider than welt for seam allowance.
   3. On right side of garment, lay welt raw edges along placement line BELOW and pocket lining along placement line ABOVE. Stitch ¼” away from placement line on each.
   Stitching line for lining should be a tad bit shorter than for welt to hide lining when finished.
   4. Clip along placement line thru fashion fabric leaving long triangles to cut to corners.
   5. Turn lining to inside, align right side raw edge of lining with wrong side raw edge of welt. Stitch over original stitching line.
   6. Press pocket in place-turn triangles away from welt.
   7. Fold fashion fabric out of the way and stitch thru triangles/lining and edges of pocket lining to form pocket shape. A zipper foot may be helpful here.
   8. Edgestitch or tack welt in place on outside.

2. Pattern directions are great but you must read them instead of just look at the pictures.  You’ll be a better person, I promise J
3. Sleeves ended up an inch long.  Button placket is hidden without the bulk of a “real” placket.
4. I used a double strand of Sulky embroidery thread through a single needle in my sewing machine for topstitching.  Loosen needle tension.

Pattern: Butterick 5567

Fabric: Boucle

Pattern Changes: Turned grain to be horizontal for yokes and vertical for body-good directions, easy fit. Just not what I was trying to achieve with the faux leather.

Leather Vest-first try

Leather Vest-second try

Pattern: KwikSew 3172

Fabric: Red faux leather, wrinkled brocade lining

Pattern Changes: Lining added and slits at side seams

Construction:

1. When cutting out pattern, add ¼” or desired seam allowance to neck edges and armhole edges for lining seams.
2. You may want to use a zipper that opens both ways for sitting ease and then you may not have to use slits at side seams.
3. Stitch seams in wide 3 thread overlock so you can topstitch.
4. Assemble leather vest and topstitch and vest lining-no topstitching except for side seams.
5. Stitch zipper to center front.
6. Stitch lining to vest at armholes, neck edge and center fronts-be sure to fold top edge of zipper diagonally so it is in center seam but not neck seam or it won’t turn right side out properly.  Stitch corners of side seam slits.
7. Grade seams, turn right side out.  Sew side seams. Match bottom edges so they are right sides together and sew bottom hem of fronts between zipper and slits and then back hem leaving a space for turning.  Turn right side out and topstitch opening closed.

Collette Sencha Blouse

Pattern: Collette Sencha Blouse

Fabric: Sheer polyester

Pattern Changes:  Curious about the pattern line and took advantage of the Christmas deal.  Made to pattern but wasn’t pleased with the blousing of the top.  Suggest making smaller pleats so the blouse hangs more instead of blousing at waist because of the snug fit of bottom half of blouse.  Neck is small-increased by 5/8” all around, no need to increase size of facing as it is deep.

FASHION SEWING CLUB

January 2012

Laurel Ely

Garment Type:  Tunic Blouse –

Pattern Company & Number:  McCall’s 6167

Fabric:  Cotton

Notions:

• Thread
• Interfacing
• Buttons

Pattern Changes and Cutting Directions:

• Shorten bodice so that it ends about 2” below bra band and add seam allowance
• Cut collar using our one seam technique

Construction Directions:

• Mark the matching point at the collar and stand very carefully

• Sew collar to the collar stands, sewing from the dots to the center back on each side of the stand.  Your stand will look more professional if you do this.
• Sew the outside collar stand to the right side of the blouse, but do not catch the front facing.
• Open up the front facing and carefully match the inside stand with the facing only.
• Now fold the inside stand back onto the other stand and restitch these pieces.  I know this seems strange, but you will get a nice, neat inside collar stand.
• Turn to inside and hand stitch or sew in the ditch to sew the rest of the inside stand in place.
• Follow the rest of the directions as per pattern.

Garment Type:  Black Jacket with Lapels

Pattern Company & Number:  Unique 8018

Fabric:  Bouclé wool

Notions:

• Thread
• Interfacing
• ¼” cotton tailor’s tape
• 3 buttons
• Lining Fabric (I like to use a fun print inside.)
• Tie interfacing cut 1 ½” wide and the length from notch to notch

Pattern Changes and Cutting Directions:

• Jacket to pattern (This is a pattern that is drafted to your personal measurements.  I was able to cut it out without any changes.
• Lining:
• Use the jacket patterns for the lining.
•  Eliminate the front facing but add seam allowances to the front side piece that will be attached to the facing.
•  Add at least 1/8” at each side seam allowance and ¼” at the armscythe to get over the underarm seam.
• Also, add 1” on the fold for the center back for ease of wearing.
• The length of the jacket and sleeves should be about ½” shorter than the fashion fabric.
• Cut interfacing for all the hems, at least 1 ½” wider than the hem allowances.

Construction Directions:

• Follow the pattern directions, except for the following:
• Place tie interfacing along the top of the sleeve cap and stretch at ½”, using a basting stitch.  This will form the cap and give you a nice sleeve head.  Now sew the underarm seam.
• Use the tailor’s tape along the roll line.

Garment Type:  Sweater – Inspiration from Von Maur’s

Pattern Company & Number:  Unique 8018

Fabric:  Pont de Roma

Notions:

• Thread
• Interfacing
• 14 buttons (3/4 – 1”)

Pattern Changes and Cutting Directions:

• Extend the line on the center from hem to neck edge.  Cut off facing and ½” seam allowance.
• Redraft both front and back neck facings at 2 ½”
• Since this pattern is intended for woven fabrics and the sweater is a knit, you will have to make some adjustments in the size.
• Interface a piece of fabric on the cross grain so that you can cut out 14 tabs 1 ½” x 2 ½” wide

Construction Directions:

• Put 2 sides together on 7 tabs and edge stitch and top stitch.  Sew buttonholes in all 7 tabs.
• Sew the princess seams together, press toward the side seams and top stitch.
• Sew shoulders together and the facing shoulders together and clean finish the facing edge.
• Distribute the tabs along the front by placing right sides of tabs to right side of sweater and putting 4 tabs on the right side and 3 on the left side.  The tabs will be facing toward the side seams.
• Sew the facing onto the sweater.  I used ½” seam allowances on the facings.
• Finish according to pattern directions.

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