August 2016

Fashion Sewing Club
August 2016

Tulip Skirt Goes to New Lengths
McCalls 7386
Ponte knit-View D
ITY knit-View E

1. Really like the pattern for its straight silhouette but ease of wearing/walking with the slight flair at hem and center back.
2. View D is to pattern length-View E is 3 ½” longer than pattern.

Sandra Betzina Outfit #1
Vogue 1515
Top-Rayon scrunchy woven
Skirt-ITY knit

1. Top-lengthened 1” and no hem turned up.
a. Bust dart omitted because of fabric characteristics
b. Reinforced neckline/serged inside of neckband to inside edge
c. Serged knit band to armholes and stitched to inside
d. Took in side seams total of 4”.
2. Skirt-length to pattern
a. Added elastic to waist
b. Variation on Tilton skirts
c. Fronts same as back


Sandra Betzina Outfit #2
Vogue 1386
Dress-stripe mesh

1. Dress is drape neck but not my best look
2. Cut off 4 ½ “ when hemming.
3. Added vertical tucks.
4. Slip is very well constructed-all seams enclosed.
5. Be aware of texture of knit.
Golf Outfit
Top-Burda 6990-activewear knit and mesh
Skirt-McCall’s 6965-activewear knit

1. Top-added 1” at CF fold and cut for CF seam. Added zipper which is a bit strong for fabric. Assembled as usual.
2. Skirt is a woven pattern with shaped waistband that is stretchy now because of knit. Fun summer option.

Material Girls Fashion Sewing Club
August 2016

Debbie’s Garments:
Floral Shirt- Amy Butler Liverpool shirt.
Fabric and Notions: Cotton shirting, interfacing and buttons, amount to pattern.
Pattern and Construction Changes:
1. This is a favorite shirt of mine and when I saw the floral cotton I knew it would be fun to make another even though the directions can be confusing.
2. I did a lot of fussy cutting to make use of the floral pattern. For example the top collar is pieced, I offset the large floral on the shirt back and used contrast for the under collar and stand. – The directions for the Granville Shirt by Sewaholic and directions from Louise Cutting from Threads, June/July 2014, Precision Collar Band, are helpful for the collar construction.
3. I used 1/4” serged seams and did not topstitch the bust darts. I also chose not to use covered buttons.

Marci Tilton Shrug-Vogue 9190, View A.
Fabric and Notions: Pattern calls for moderate stretch knits such as jersey, light weight ponte knits so after much consideration I chose a rayon jersey – not the best choice!
Pattern and Construction Changes:
1. The directions for this pattern are a challenge. Slipstitching is the technique recommended throughout the pattern as well as basting and using a double needle.
The serger is recommended to use as a seam finish, not as a construction technique.
2. For the ties I used “jersey rolls” instead of ribbon.
* Dress is McCalls 6074

Denim Skirt- Burda 6769, View A waist and View B length.
Fabric and Notions: 98% cotton, 2% spandex amount to pattern, zipper, button and topstitching thread.
Pattern and Construction Changes:
1. Caution – patience is required.The instructions are difficult and confusing. Also making a muslin could eliminate frustration in fit.
2. I did not use interfacing for waistband. Light weight cotton was used for pocket, zipper flap and waistband facing.
3. I did not follow pattern zipper instructions. Instead I did as much topstitching as possible on flap then inserted the zipper.
4. Size 100/16 or jeans needle was used with topstitching thread.
5. Fabric glue stick was used for basting and it was helpful to pound seam allowances before topstitching.
FYI- favorite Tee- shirt pattern is McCalls 6964

September 2016 Fashion Sewing Club Dates:
Thursday, September 8, 6:30 @ First sewing
Saturday, September 10, 10:30 @ Treadle
Tuesday, September 13, 10:30 @ Treadle