January Wrap-up

Our Lakes Makerie meeting was full of great makes! Keep scrolling down for Debbie and Kristin’s garments-

Vogue 8854 in wool
Burda 5860…
In reversible wool!!
Big Easy from Makers Atelier-in wool!
Named Talvikki Tunic in fleece
Grandbaby sewing: Poncho from lavenderlilydesign@gmail.com
Beautiful handwork in purple wool
Silk cording on purple wool

January Garment Sewing Group

Debbie’s Garments:

Love Notions Metra Blazer, shawl neck view, stretch corduroy

I am a fan of toppers and the Metra Blazer is a TNT for me.

On this version I lined the sleeves with a stretch crepe and finished seams with a Hong Kong finish.

The front facing connects to the side panel and creates the pocket bag and gives the jacket some structure and stabilization to compensate for soft corduroy.

I find this topper versatile, an easy and quick make and a great addition to my wardrobe.

Butterick 7061, View B, wool with rayon lining

I mistakenly thought this was going to be an easy make but became a challenge mainly due to some decisions I made.

I had a limited amount of fabric to use so that made matching plaid a challenge.

The first fit adjustment I made was adding 3” of length to jacket – Not a fan of cropped jackets-and shortened the sleeves 2 inches. I also did a narrow shoulder adjustment.

The pattern is unlined. I lined the sleeves and underlined the jacket body. I wish I would have made a lining for the jacket and a back neck facing to connect the center front facings. Not having that back neck facing piece means the shoulder of the front facings is slipped stitched – Not a fan of that procedure!

I lined the pockets, repositioned them and topstitched them onto the jacket. Not sure that was the best idea.

The pattern calls for 2 buttons – I added a third.

The jacket hem is a contour facing. A nice finish to the jacket.

Butterick 6924 in rayon challis

For fit I did my standard adjustments. Then considering this make a wearable muslin I did a lot of machine basting as much as possible to get a good fit. I feel the shirt runs large and/or is oversized-I would go down a size next time.

This is a Palmer/Pletsch pattern so there are a good construction tips such as a painless placket, front “yoke” and neck binding finish.

I like to use the burrito method for yokes – the pattern does not use that method but I did. Unfortunately once again since there is no back neck facing I have the shoulder section of the front facings needing to be slip-stitched to keep them from floating.

This is a good pattern in that it makes up quickly, it has good construction tips and variations for sleeves and hems.

Kristin’s Garments:

Vogue 1648 in wool knit with ponte facings

After an exhaustive search for a pattern that had the same neckline, I chose Vogue 1648 because of the funnel neck. Surprising how hard it is to find this particular neck style. I found another pattern “MonoPattern Oversized Coat” but it was also a funnel neck even tho the photo didn’t show it that way.

The bell sleeve is from Burda 6059-I shortened it (maybe just a bit too much) but if too long the bell becomes a blob 🙂 Hem is the casing for elastic.

The Vogue pattern has a welt pocket so I gave it a try-pretty small and weird. Went to YouTube and watched Sew Anastasia-How to Sew a Welt Pocket and made that work. Not pretty on the inside but I am happy with results.

I cut down the neck, especially at center front, pretty much eliminated the back curved hem and eliminated the back pleat.

Weirdest thing is discovering -almost at the end of construction-that the fabric has a nap and is probably directional but you really have to look!

Jalie Marie Claude Cotton, rib knit and lots of buttons!

Had to give it a try and this stripe called out to me 🙂

Added 3/4” at center fold (1.25” total) and cut apart, serged, folded and lapped. Learned how to sew buttons on with machine.

Added buttons to cuffs. Neck was tricky because of the back neck section.

Handy trick when beginning coverstitch at an edge: stitch on Solvy to get started, then on to fabric. Solvy tears away quickly and you can knot the end and hide it.

Merchant & Mills Eve Trouser in wide wale corduroy

I’ve made this pattern before but needed to try again as the others turned out too big. I wanted a smooth front (as opposed to a zip and button) for wearing under the stripe turtle.

The side zip has a flap that makes it classy. I used woven interfacing for the waistband-convenient in a pre-cut width.

These pants are keepers and I love the wide wale cord for winter.

February 2026 Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, Feb. 11, 10:30 at The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Thursday, Feb. 12, 10:30 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, Feb. 14, 10:30 at Sew Inviting, St. Paul

Other dates for your calendar:

Sew Inviting Sale-Semi annual sale going on now!

Frocktails-April 11- “Making Through the Decades” Tickets on sale 1/11

H+H Americas Fiber and Craft Festival: April 30-May 3, Chicago area

January Sew Far-

You have one more chance to show us your stuff!! Wednesday, January 14, at Lakes Makerie will be the last of the January meetings-hope you can make it!!

Here is what we’ve seen so far 🙂

It all started with a Labobo doll (and a grandchild, of course)
And it became a pattern and a bit of an obsession-so cute!
Vintage coverlet in self-drafted pattern
Beautiful quilt top
Quokka Top from Waves and Wild
PJ’s using Stretch & Sew 333 and Valencia Pant/Sewing Workshop and wearing Christine Jonson Travel Trio 2 Turtleneck
Velour Top with custom thumb holes-how much fun do we have??
Deer and Doe Plantain Tee and Cashmerette Calder Pants
Lots of love (and work) in Annie’s bags!!
Christine Jonson #917 3 Tees
Sewing up UFO’s-Sewing Workshop Helix Pant
Custom drafted pant and Sewing Workshop Quincy Jacket
Robert’s Wood Flower Patchwork Top
Stylearc Archie Jacket plus 2”
Sew Over It Coco Jacket-trim was the selvedge!!
Variation on a Toaster Sweater/Sew House Seven
Sewing Workshop Elle Shirt in wool

Serger for Sale! SOLD!!

Need a last minute Christmas present (for yourself :)?

This is a combination Babylock Evolution which means it will do 4 thread overlock and coverstitch. It’s a few models back and not as large as the current models. Only been used about 6 times. $900 or best offer. Please email materialgirlsewing@gmail.com if interested.

Debbie and Kristin’s December Garments

Debbie’s Garments:

Love Notions Bridget Trouser in Ponte knit

I don’t wear black often but sometimes a black pair of pants is a need. This pattern release inspired me to try out a muslin with Ponte in my stash – exactly what the pattern recommends.

Love Notions are excellent patterns in terms of fit and construction. Options for fit include full belly and full bum, 3 inseam lengths and two leg widths. It is a high waist pant with back darts and contour waistband. Slash pockets are included as well as optional welt pockets.

To meet my needs I did my standard length adjustments. Since this was a muslin I eliminated the welt pockets and belt loops. Then I continued the project as pattern directs. In the end I like the fit from waist to hips but not fond of pant leg width.

The only construction detail that seemed odd was folding over 1/4 inch at edge of leg hem and then stitch. That seemed a little homemade to me. I would rather serge edge and hand stitch or cover stitch.

Pattern Emporium Spill the Tea Tie Neck Blouse/Red silk

1. This was a fun make but I did not enjoy working with the silk fabric!

2. The pattern instructions are very good and relatively easy. There is no front placket -just slip it over your head and tie a fun bow. For the center front seam I serged the edges and topstitched the top of the seam from V opening to shoulder. The pattern instructions direct you to make a “narrow” hem along center front seam – I didn’t feel that was necessary.

3. The bow construction is very much like a burrito method and the directions are clear. If you are a visual learner check out Lifting Pins and Needles – Heavenly Bow Ties is a good resource on You Tube.

4. For fit I petited between shoulder and bust, bust and waist and waist and hem. I also did a narrow shoulder adjustment.

5. I give this pattern 5 stars and will definitely make it again in a more user friendly fabric!

Style Arc Harriet Jacket in fine wale corduroy

This is a TNT jacket pattern for me. It goes together quickly whether you choose to line it or not. Next time I make it I need to remember to shorten the sleeves!

I like the casual tailored look and appreciate how easy it is to wear and to complete an outfit.

McCalls 8210 in wool knit blend-the jacket dwarfed Debbie so Christine was kind enough to model 🙂

Wow- this make was a challenge for me.

The pattern is extremely oversized. I used the smallest size and shortened body and sleeve length.

The fabric was not easy to work with-mostly because I did not do well matching fabric to pattern. It was not only too bulky but spongy and moved around a lot.

The fabric did not like the standard or walking presser foot – I found the teflon foot the best option.

I stitched the seams with the sewing machine and then serged the raw edges. I like the welt pocket. But they are messy on the inside and topstitching was difficult.

I feel the directions for construction need much improvement in every aspect.

Kristin’s Garments

Stylearc Loren Jacket in cotton velvet

The long version of the Loren has been so fun to wear that I had to try it short (9.5” shorter 🙂 I purchased the extension pack (lining, sleeve and collar variations) and used the lining but still used the shawl collar.

Velvet was tricky to work with but love it now that it’s done. The first jacket had some stretch to it so was curious to see how it would fit in a woven. The shoulders are a size smaller but everything else is the same and fits very well.

Stylearc is including more directions but still a bit confusing.

I have a pair of Closet Core/Rika Pants cut out in the same fabric for a tuxedo look!

Pattern Emporium Spill the Tea Blouse in rayon twill

Like Debbie says-a great sew and pattern and I’ll use it again!!

There’s a tv show called Elsbeth-she wears blouses in bold prints and colors with frills at the neck and wrists under jackets in colors you and I would never put together. Fun!!

Jalie Charlotte Cardigan in cotton fleece

Because there is very little stretch in the fleece I cut out three sizes larger and still had to add an inch to the sleeve width to make it comfortable but the fit was good otherwise.

The hem band has been omitted to keep it short. The stability of the fleece worked well for the hem.

The phone pocket is 6.5”x7.5” and is a welt square for the zip opening and then sewn together top and bottom and one single vertical seam, then turned right side out and sewn on to garment.

Crescent Tote/Noodlehead in canvas

1. Fun make in canvas. Used Bosal for stabilizer/interfacing.

January 2026 Garment Sewing Group

Thursday, January 8, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, January 10, 10:30 at Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Wednesday, January 14, 10:30 at Lakes Makerie, Mpls.

December Meetings Ended With New Faces!

Don’t get me wrong-the Wednesday and Thursday meetings were great but Madee (the owner of Open Studio Sewing) rocked it and got some of her sewing community members to check us out and added a new perspective to our Saturday meeting. And thanks to our regulars that met for coffee at Yum! before the meeting-a great Saturday all around!

Check out the new faces!

Ginny Top from Elle Stitch
Spaghetti Western Sewing Henrietta Skirt (and crocheted sweater!)
True Bias Marlo and Jalie Eleonore Pant
Simplicity 9272 in wool knit
Friday Pattern Company Donny Shirt and Helen’s Closet Falconer Pant
Tiana Herring Juniper Dress and Tauko Cloud Top
Merchant & Mills Sanda Jacket #1
And #2! I want to be on her Christmas list!
And for Dad-Helen’s Closet Cameron Button Up

Rue spaghetti western sewing

Minimalist shirt tropical research

Spaghetti Western Sewing Rue Quilt Coat
Tropical Research Minimalist Shirt (channeling warm beaches)
Sew Liberated Chanterelle Pant
Thread Theory Jedediah Pant
Papercut Patterns Copellia Cardi
Merry Christmas!

December First Look

Weather kept most people away from Sewing Lounge on Wednesday but a few of us made it. Fun to be together and enjoyed a quiet lunch after at Rose Street Patisserie!

Thursday gave us pretty good winter driving conditions and we had a good crowd at Creative Sewing in Apple Valley.

Saturday will be at Open Studio Sewing in St. Louis Park. We’ll start with breakfast/coffee at Yum! Bakery, just across the parking lot from the store.

New Look 6106-the skirt with a very long gestational period!
Hand knitted origami scarf
A very close copy of FibreMood Elmo Shawl pattern
The FibreMood Elmo Shawl pattern-nice work, Cindy!!
Granddaughter sewing and Love Notions Boyfriend Cardi in red
Vogue 9275 in sweatshirt fleece
Costume sewn! in just two weeks-lots of learning!! Sweet Todd Vest, Pirate Shirt, Lace up Skirt by Twig and Tale
Feel Good Dress that became a top

Debbie and Kristin Garments-November

December meetings are right around the corner-

December 2025 Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, December 10, 10:30 at the Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Thursday, December 11, 10:30 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, December 13, 10:30 at Open Sew Studio, St. Louis Park

And here are Debbie and Kristin’s makes from November:

Debbie’s Garments:

Amy Butler Liverpool in featherweight corduroy

TNT pattern that includes a shirt, tunic, dress with sleeve options.

For this make I used snaps for closures and adapted width for cuff and used a faux snap for pleated cuff effect.

The pattern fit, construction, and instruction details are excellent.

Cranberry Cardi

Seamwork Fig Cardigan in bamboo rib knit

I realized too late the pattern did not have a B cup. I thought with a few fit adjustments like petiting and taking in seams I might get a good fit – that did not work. Should have done a small bust adjustment.

This is a good pattern so I do not want to deter others from making it. I will pass this garment on and some day give it another try.

I did not use the cuffs because I neglected to shorten length of sleeve.

I increased the neck band width by 1/2” which I would not do next time.

Sewing with the fabric was a good experience. My standard machine, serger and cover stitch machine all worked beautifully with the fabric.

The only negative with the fabric is getting the rib straight when sewing – strictly an operator error!

Love Notions Terra Tunic with Greenstyle Surge Sweatshirt neckband in cable stripe quilted double knit

I had planned to make the Terra Tunic with the funnel neck but accidentally cut the scoop neckline. I needed to rectify my mistake – then I remembered the neckband/collar feature from the Greenstyle pattern.

I had already stitched the shoulder and sleeves for the tunic so it was too late to add the zipper feature from the Greenstyle pattern . As luck would have it the neckband from the Greenstyle pattern fit nicely into the Terra Tunic without the zipper.

The neckband has a faced front and back pattern piece. The directions instruct to sew front and backs rst to neck edge and then fold under bottom edges of facing and slip stitch to neck edge – Nope – I treated the front and back pieces and facings as one and serged the neck edge.

I like the details on the Greenstyle Surge Sweatshirt so will give the entire pattern a try.

Kristin’s Garments:

Robe-McCalls 6844 with sleeve from Butterick 6596 in wool knit

Not wanting a kimono robe but also wanting some ease, I substituted a bit bigger sleeve with a broader sleeve cap. I also added an inch of depth across the back to make a bigger armhole to accommodate the sleeve and do a forward shoulder/neck adjustment. A bit unorthodox but it seems to have worked.

Ran out of fabric for the double thick and wide neckband but very happy I kept as is-nice and cozy.

Pajama Top-Burda 6990, Pajama Bottoms-Hudson Joggers all wool knit

Feeling chilly as I sewed so made the funnel neck version of this favorite pattern. No regrets. Running out of fabric fuels my creative juices-all good.

Going for more of a “pajama” vibe the cuffs were made same width as leg. The cuff hem gives a nice weight to the thin wool.

Simplicity R12029/9896 in fleece and corduroy
Back pocket-just in case 🙂

Pattern has been fermenting in my stash-had fun arranging fabrics.

It’s a unisex pattern (size Medium) and made for wovens so I made no adjustments to size-other than whacking off a bunch of sleeve length!!

Pocket construction was biggest challenge. In the end, double sided iron-on tape was my best friend and I didn’t follow their instructions.

Spray glue also became my friend as I layered the corduroy on the fleece. Not too much trouble sewing it all together-serger struggled a bit on intersections.

Check pocket size for your intended use-may need to adjust size. Fun make!

Jalie Vanessa’s in wool/cotton blend

1. I have a great stash of warm pant fabric so had choices when making another pair of pants for the trip. The fabric is cotton on inside and wool on outside. Dreamy to wear!!

November Meetings Finale

Sew Inviting was the host of our Wednesday meeting and then we were at Creative Sewing in Apple Valley for our Thursday wrap up.

Talvikki Sweater by Named Clothing
Butterick 5927 with a few modifications 🙂
Sewing Workshop Bells and Whistles
Fun neckline-Marcy Tilton Vogue 2067
Helen’s Closet Moss Sweater, Love Notions Willow Wrap Top, Jalie Genevieve Skirt
Getting closer to the perfect shirt! (Pattern can no longer be named 🙂
A prolific sewist!
Love Notions Terra Tunic
Vogue 1818-great take on a vest!
Sewing Workshop Opal Jacket with Grainline Studio Lark Tee
Simplicity 2153 with a little help from Simplicity 9889
Sew House Seven Tabor and Sewing Workshop Helix Pant
A little holiday cheer!!

First Photos from November

We had a lovely crowd at Sewing Lounge on Saturday. Beautiful new fabric, too! We’ll be at Sew Inviting on Wednesday and Creative on Thursday-see you!!

Lola Dress by Victory Patterns in a cozy knit
Sew House Seven Revel Topper in silk and Tessuti Madden Skirt
Costume sewing for a lucky high school drama group
Sewing Workshop San Diego Jacket and some creative piecing!
Made by Rae Beatrix and Papercut Palisade Pants
Back detail on the Beatrix
No, Rosemary didn’t make a jacket for Bernie 🙂 It’s for her husband!
But Bernie was a very cooperative model! Pattern is Merchant & Mills with a cotton math themed red lining and Bemberg sleeve lining-lucky husband!!
Somebody opened up old boxes and found her earliest makes-the gingham apron!!
The skirt and button top
And this is how far she’s come!! Butterick 5616 jacket
And some beautiful pintucks added to Butterick 6376 blouse